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How to Use Captive Bead Rings

Using My Septum + Daith Designs

Opening + Closing the Design:

When you first get your jewelry, it may seem impossible to get the bead out of the hoop - don't try to pull the bead out forcefully, it won't work!

Instead, the trick is to hold the hoop with one hand, and pull the bead to one side in a horizontal motion with your other hand. This motion will make the opening wider and one side of the bead will pop out so that you can remove it.

Once the hoop is inserted in your piercing, you can put the bead back into the hoop using the same motion in reverse.

  • Captive beads are held securely in the hoop with tension. The gap in the hoop should always be smaller than the coil on the back of the design. Otherwise there will not be enough tension to stop the bead from falling forward.
  • My 16G and 14G captive bead designs can be inserted and removed by hand. However, you can use captive bead ring opening pliers to gently open the ring if you're having trouble. I would highly recommend getting ring opening pliers if you plan on changing the jewelry often, it makes it much easier!
  • The gap in the hoop only needs to be slightly widened for the bead to easily come out. Avoid widening it too much, otherwise you may deform the hoop or make it so that the bead will not sit flat again when it's inserted.
  • Quick Tip: If you drop the captive bead, be careful not to drag the front side of the design across a hard surface. Lift it straight up. Dragging it against something hard could scratch the ceramic plating or the inlay.

Troubleshooting Tips:

  • Make sure your hands and the jewelry are completely dry before you try removing or putting the bead back in the hoop. If anything is wet, then the bead will feel nearly impossible to work with.
  • You can wear a nitrile glove to improve your grip on the jewelry, this can make it a lot easier to remove/insert the beads! Look for gloves that have textured finger tips.
  • Try flipping the design forward (so the coil is easily visible when you're looking directly at the design) if you're having trouble getting the bead back into the hoop while it's in your piercing. This can make it a lot easier to push the bead in a horizontal motion.
  • Did you buy a 10mm hoop? If you're having a lot of trouble getting the bead back into the hoop, consider trying a hoop with a larger inner diameter. You may not physically have enough room for the design to sit correctly in your piercing. Additionally, a 12mm captive ring is easier to work with by hand versus a 10mm captive ring because you have more room on the hoop to hold it with your fingers.

Cleaning Tips:

  • Cleaning your captive bead is super easy! Just use an extra soft toothbrush to gently wash it under warm water with a mild soap every so often if needed. You can also use a soft microfiber cloth to wipe off anything that accumulates on the bead in between washing.
  • Avoid using any type of abrasive cleaning product on the bead (such as pretreated polishing cloths). Doing so can damage the ceramic plating.
  • Use a towel to pat the bead dry if you get it wet.
  • Avoid exposing the bead to harsh chemicals (acetone, alcohol, etc) or letting lotions/makeup stay on the design for prolonged periods of time. Prolonged contact may damage the inlay.
  • Keep each design in its own separate bag to prevent your jewelry from scratching against other pieces. Letting other jewelry rub against it could damage the inlay or the ceramic plating.

Opening + Closing a Captive Bead Ring

While you're watching the process, note how flipping the design forward so the coil is visible makes it easier to remove the design from the hoop and insert it back into place.

You don't need ring opening pliers to work with my designs, the bead can be removed and inserted by hand! But pliers can make the job easier if you have long nails, are using a 10mm inner diameter hoop, or want to switch designs frequently.

how to open and close a captive bead ring

My name is Amber, welcome to my shop!

I'm the sole maker around here. All of my jewelry designs are crafted from scratch in my workshop. Whether you came here for the bugs, the skulls, or just a badass new piercing piece — I’m stoked you found my curious little corner of the web. It's always Halloween around here 🖤

I started crafting these pieces because I couldn’t find body jewelry that really reflected my personality and felt like wearable art. So I taught myself how to make my own. And then I made more. And now here we are. My business is built entirely on self-taught skills.